Category Archives: Travel in Southeast Asia

Wat Pongsanuk, UNESCO Award-Winning Heritage Temple

Opposite the Wang River in the municipality of Lampang province, Thailand, is Wat Pongsanuk (also spelled Pong Sanuk or Pong Sanook), a 500-year-old temple site with buildings in a mix of Lanna, Burmese and Chinese architectural and decorative styles.

Similar to Wat Phratat Lampang Luang, Wat Pong Sanuk is surrounded with a white wall built on a man-made mound of earth.

A two-year historically informed restoration project of the viharn (Viharn Phra Chao Pun Ong) was given an Award of Merit in 2008 by UNESCO.

Wat Pong Sanuk,
Wat Pong Sanuk,

Its legend and architectural background :

Wat Pongsanuk was built during the reign of King Anantayot in 680 CE, the same period that Lampang was settled. The temple was also the place where the city first sacred pillar was laid. The name of the temple according to legend comes from the Pong Sanuk community that migrated to live in this area. Literally, Pong Sanuk in Thai means “the clan of fun”.

Nagas adorned at the entrance of the temple represents the area between the Earth and Holy Land.
Nagas adorned at the entrance of the temple represents the area between the Earth and Holy Land.

In ancient times, the temple had many monks and novices studying inside. To be able to oversee the whole large area, the temple was divided into two sections; Pong Sanuk Nua (North) and Pong Sanuk Tai (South). This is a rare practice to have two temples under the same Sema, (sacred stone designates the area). You will also notice that one section of the temple is built on a mound. This mound, or locally known as ‘Mondoi” symbolizes Mount Meru, home of the gods and Holy Land according to Buddhist cosmology.

First Glimpse of Wat Pong Sanuk from the entrance gate
First Glimpse of Wat Pong Sanuk from the entrance gate

Highlights

The temple shows an outstanding combination of Lanna, Burmese and Chinese Styles. One of the most prominent features of the temple is the multi-layered roof and cruciform-shaped pavilion of Viharn Phra Chao Phan Ong.

The multi-layered roof and cruciform-shaped reveals connection with Burmese influence whereas the decoration around reveals connection with the Chinese.
The multi-layered roof and cruciform-shaped reveals connection with Burmese influence whereas the decoration around reveals connection with the Chinese.

Internally the viharn is decorated with 1,080 Buddhist Tablets. You will also get to see plenty of Buddhist art and fine designs throughout the entire compound. The open Lanna-Burmese style viharn is also the only teak wood temple left in Thailand. The UNESCO award was given for the restoration of this most important building, making use of community collective efforts to use traditional styles of decoration to restore the many parts of the temple which had fallen into disrepair previously.

Credit photo : Komchadluek via http://bit.ly/1qdelak Buddhist tablets near the supporting beam and the decorations inside Viharn Phra Chao Phan Ong
Credit photo : Komchadluek via http://bit.ly/1qdelak
Buddhist tablets near the supporting beam and the decorations inside Viharn Phra Chao Phan Ong

Another important feature of the temple is the Buddhist-related materials that kept inside the temple such as Pra Bod (canvas and Sa paper painted the Pravesdsandon, Buddha’s past life tales), wooden Buddha images and the chests of various sizes and designs.  Ancient Lanna people called this chests“ Heep Dham”.  It is said that the chests are contained with an ancient hand written scrolls, and Tripitaka.

The chests in various sizes and designs inside the temple hall.
The chests in various sizes and designs inside the temple hall.

How to get there

The temple is located in central Lampang city. It is found on Pongsanuk road, just North of the Wang river. You can go there by songthaew, horse drawn carriage, a motorbike or bicycle.

Best time to visit

The temple opens daily during daylight hours, but we recommend going there early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the strong direct sunlight.

Opening Hrs : 05:30- 20.30

Decoration outside the temple Hall
Decoration outside the temple Hall

Writer’s Note

Of numerous temples found in Lampang, you will notice the connection to the Burmese in their construction style. This is because Lampang used to be a center of teak logging in North Thailand. During those years many Burmese migrated to live in this area to work on the teak logging business. The wealthy Burmese built a number of Burmese style monasteries as an act of gaining merit.

There is a local saying that if you would like to see Burmese temple in Thailand, just go to Lampang. Apart from Wat Pongsanuk, there are other Burmese style temples in the city such as Wat Sri Chum, Wat Sri Rong Mueang, Wat Chedi Soundlang and Wat Phrakaew Don Tao. Story and photo by Wanweena Tangsathianraphap

Wat Phra That Lampang Luang, Temple of Great Buddha Relic

Wat Phra That Lampang Luang is one of the most exquisite temples of Thailand. It is located in Ko Kah district, approximately 20 kilometres Southwest of Lampang in the Northern part of Thailand.

Literally, Wat Phra That Lampang Luang means Temple of Lampang’s Great Buddha Relic. According to legend, the Buddha once visited the site some 2,500 years ago and donated a hair, which is now kept in the temple’s large chedi together with the right forehead and neck bones.

It is also the temple of those who were born in the Ox year because the construction of the temple is held to have begun and finished in years of the Ox.

Main Chedi of Prata Lampang Luang
Main Chedi of Prata Lampang Luang

Legend and architectural background

There are many legends citing the foundation of Wat Phra That Lampang Luang, but evidence suggests 11th-12th Century during the time of Princess Chama Devi, ruler of the Hariphunchai Kingdom.

Pra Nakprok, is believed to be the oldest Buddha Image of Lavo Kingdom in 12th Century. Father of Princess Chama Devi gave it to her to place inside the chapel.
Pra Nakprok, is believed to be the oldest Buddha Image of Lavo Kingdom in 12th Century. Father of Princess Chama Devi gave it to her to place inside the chapel.

The temple is a remarkable example of an early Lanna style architecture in Thailand. Its viharns are open on all sides with the pillars lacquered with gold. Inside viharns, there are many mural paintings using vivid color on both side of the walls.

Carving in front of the main viharn
Carving in front of the main viharn

Another uniqueness of Wat Phra That Lampang Luang is its white high brick walls, creating the appearance from outside of a fortress, locally known as “wiang”. This fortified monastery was built on a man-made earth mound similar to Wat Pong Sanuk.

The position of the viharns, gates and balustrades indicate the influence of Buddhist cosmology. Two large guardian lion statues stand at the foot of the staircase with the steps to the entrance gate representing the connection between the Earth and the Holy land. Both sides of the staircases are adorned by a multi-headed Naga coming out of Makara’s mouth, revealing a Burmese connection. Makara is an imagined hybrid animal combining serpent and crocodile. It can be found in Burmese, Khmer and Indian myth.

Credit : Thongthailand via http://bit.ly/1vvZsTP Pictures shown the Naga revealing out of Maraka’s mouth and staircases to the temple.
Credit : Thongthailand via http://bit.ly/1vvZsTP
Pictures shown the Naga revealing out of Maraka’s mouth and staircases to the temple.

Once you walk to the gate, you will see it was decorated with carved animals in Himmapan forest. In an ancient myth, this forest is located at the foothill of the mountain of Meru, the central-world mountain in Buddhist cosmology.

right : Pratat Lampang Luang gate
right : Pratat Lampang Luang gate

So when you enter the gate, you will encounter the Earth represented by Viharn Luang, a large building with a three tiered roof. Next to it is the chedi which is intentionally built at the center of the compound representing Meru and the Holy land.

Around the compound has other 3 viharns – Viharn Phra Put, Viharn Nam Tam and Viharn Lavo represent the other three civilized continents.  The ground of the temple is covered with sand, symbolizing the ocean that surrounds Mount Meru.

Surrounding Main Viharn is filled with sand
Surrounding Main Viharn is filled with sand

At the back of the Viharn Luang is a massive gilded niche called ‘Ku’, sheltering Phra Chao Lan Thong, the main Buddha image. It was built in the year 1563 with the mixture of Chiangsaen and Sukhothai art. This style reveals the connection between the Lampang and Sukhothai Kingdoms in the past.

Credit photo : Krubaklong via http://bit.ly/1psowsC Phra Chao Lan Thong inside Ku.
Credit photo : Krubaklong via http://bit.ly/1psowsC
Phra Chao Lan Thong inside Ku.

Further Highlights

For Buddist art lovers, Wat Pratat Lampang Luang is like a large well-preserved art museum. There are many things in this temple you cannot see in other areas, not even in Chiang Mai, former capital city of the Lanna Kingdom.

Whereas many temples in the other Northern provinces have been restored using modern materials and modern building techniques, Wat Phra That Lampang Luang has been praised by many Buddhism art experts that it is one of the few unique temples that have been best preserved in its original state. Located far from the battlefields between the Lanna and Burmese armies, the temple has survived and maintained its architecture.

Architectures inside the temple reveal early Lanna style and connection with Burmese influence. The pediment has been restored, but still preserved in its originality.
Architecture inside the temple reveal early Lanna style and connection with Burmese influence. The pediment has been restored, but still preserved in its original styles.
Around Chedi

Another highlight of this temple is the upside down shadow reflection of the chedi inside Soom Phra Baht chapel. This chapel is a small tower behind the Viharn Luang and contains the Buddha’s footprint. However, women are not allowed to enter. They can instead, see this rare reflection phenomenon from Viharn Praput.

Reflection inside Viharn Praput
Reflection inside Viharn Praput

How to get there

At the time of writing (2014), there is no local public transportation stopping near the temple! So the quickest and most comfortable way to get there is by private taxi. Most hotels in Lampang will be able to book one for you.

Alternatively you can charter a songtaew, a converted pick up truck with benches in the back. If you are not in hurried and have budget, you can also charter a horse drawn carriage in the city to go to the temple or charter one of the horse drawn carriages waiting outside of the complex to get a good overview of the fortified temple and see the local area.

Horse-drawn carriages are parked in front of the temple gate. Interesting to try one?
Horse-drawn carriages are parked in front of the temple gate. Interested in trying one?

For the budget traveller, you can rent a bike in the city and hop onto the dark blue songtaew route Lampang -Ko Kah and get off at Ko Kah Hospital. Then ride a bike straight passes the district office (municipal office) on your right, after that you will see the T-junction. Turn right at the junction and continue for another 3 kilometers. The temple is to your left.

Best time to visit

The temple is open all year round. To join the annual temple festival, visits on the full moon of the 12th lunar month (sometime in November). Locals come to give praise to the main Buddha image and seek blessings.

Opening Hrs. : 07.30 – 17.00

Around Chedi

Writer’s Note:

Similar to Chiang Mai, Lampang is an ancient city of the Lanna Kingdom and today still preserves a lot of heritage sites. If you would like alternative travel route and avoid the tourist crowd of Chiang Mai, you should definitely reroute your visit here.

There is a local saying that if you would like to see Chiang Mai before it was overtaken by tourism, you must come to Lampang.

A lot of Lanna-Burmese temples are still in good condition. Every weekend, there is the walking night market which located on the old street with many old buildings on both sides.

The city is also well-known for its horse drawn carriages. Try to experience this unique way of travelling. One carriage has two seats and offers various sightseeing routes. Fare can start from 150 – 500 Baht depends on the package you choose. Story and photo by Wanweena Tangsathianraphap

Wat Phra That Phanom, Sacred Gem of Thailand’s Northeast

The sacred chedi of Phra That Phanom (also spelled Pratat Phanom) is famous as the oldest in the Northeastern part of Thailand. It is located in the compound of Wat Phratat Phanom Waramahawihan, 52 kilometers south of Nakhon Phanom Province.

This small city was once  the center of the glorious Sri Kotrabun Kingdom (5th-10th Century) encompassing territories  on  both  sides  of  the  Mekong river.  According to the Pratat Phanom legend, the name Sri Kotrabun (ศรีโคตม์บูร) means “The land of the Lord Buddha Kotama” to honor the pilgrimage visit of Lord Buddha Kotama in this area. It was also known by villager as Sri Kotrabong city (ศรีโคตรตะบอง) because the ruler of the Kingdom had a powerful staff as his weapon.

Pratat Phanom Chedi with its golden replica
Pratat Phanom Chedi with its golden replica
Wat Phra That Phanom, Sacred Gem of Thailand’s Northeast
Decoration around the chedi
Decoration around the chedi

Legend and architectural background

Archaeological excavation indicates that the chedi was built during the 7th-9th Century. Legend says that the Venerable Mahakasapa with 500 Arhats and rulers of other cities, joined hands in building the chedi and placed the chest bone relic of the Lord Buddha inside.

The strongly constructed foundation supports a tall and slender lotus-shaped chedi decorated with paintings and engravings of golden floral plate. The chedi sits on a white marble platform, on which pilgrims can say their prayers and leave offering to the relics. On the left hand side in front of the chedi, visitors can see the statue of Venerable Mahakasapa and an inscription honoring him.

Statue of Venerable Mahakasapa
Statue of Venerable Mahakasapa

In 1942, the temple was honored as a first class-royal temple. Mirroring the Khmer architectural influence, the chedi has undergone many restorations. The last restoration was in the year 1975 and completed in the year 1979. The Royal Thai Government and people nationwide contributed to rebuild it in the former shape. Besides the Lord Buddha’s relic, the reconstructed chedi houses thousands of precious items. Its crown is a golden umbrella weighing 110 kilograms!

The new elegant chedi, on a square base, is 12.33 metres wide and 53.69 metres high.

Front chedi gate protecting the relic inside
Front chedi gate protecting the relic inside
Front chedi gate decoration
Front chedi gate decoration

Pilgrimage

Pratat Panhom, similar to Pratat Haripunchai of the north and Pratat Nakornsri Thammarat of the south, is one of the Eight Great Grand Chedis (Jom Chedi) in Thailand.

It is the an icon not just of Thais in the North-East but also Laotian Buddhists who consider it once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit and pay respects here. It is one of the most popular pilgrimage destinations especially during its annual festival of That Phanom Fair.

It is believed that those who have visited the chedi 7 times will be considered the children of the chedi; and prosperity can be expected. Even once in a lifetime is considered auspicious.

Thai Buddhists also believe that Pratat Phanom is the temple for those born in the year of the Monkey and those who were born on Sunday. They will try to take a pilgrimage trip to pay homage and ask for blessing for their lives and loved ones.

Pratat Phanom  at night
Pratat Phanom at night

How to get there

The most convenient way is to take an air-conditioned coach: route Nakhon Phanom-Mukdahan. At the time of writing (August 2014), the coach leaves every 30 minutes from the city bus terminal. Tell the driver to drop you in front of the temple main gate.Travelling time is approximately an hour.

You can also take a bus which has a route that passes That Phanom. It also takes approximately an hour. However, the exact bus timetable should be checked locally.

Another option is to take Nakhon Phanom- That Phanom Songtaew, a converted pick up truck with benches in the back. It stops directly at That Phanom district but with various stops along the way, it takes two hours to reach the destination

Pratat Phanom  at night
Pratat Phanom at night

Best time to visit

Although the temple is open all year round, visitors who are interested in seeing Pratat Phanom in full grandeur are recommended to pay a visit in the 3rd lunar month of the year (around February). At that time, there is the annual Pratat Panom fair, which is a major event for northeastern people.

Another recommended period to visit is during the illuminated Boat Procession (Lai Reua Fai) which takes place at the end of Buddhist Lent (usually some time during October).

Opening Hrs. : 05.00 – 20.00

Much more to see…

Apart from the main chedi and viharn, the temple has the large area behind the main compound where you can walk through. Behind the gate, you will see the grand Bodhi tree with the Buddha image sitting inside the niche.

If you continue to walk on the right hand side, there is the Big Bell Tower, located near the exit gate.

Main viharn
Main viharn
Bell Tower
Bell Tower
Buddha image sits inside the niche under Bodhi tree
Seated Buddha image inside the niche under Bodhi tree

If you continue to walk on the left side, there is a small museum explaining the story of the temple, and behind the museum is the grand white building called “Sala Chalermprakiat”, which is the place to conduct various religious activities. The back inner most compound is the Vipassana area preserving for those who come for meditation. You will easily notice the area from the giant head of Buddha statue.

Sala Chalermprakiat
Sala Chalermprakiat
Buddha image in front of vipassana area
Buddha image in front of vipassana area

During the Buddhist Lent or Buddhist rain retreat (around July-September), monks are required to stay in a certain Buddhist monastery. If you visit the temple this time, you will easily see the monks preaching in the temple or walking in meditation around the chedi in the evening. Night view is also spectacular as the illumination reflecting all around the place. Visitors are allowed to be inside until the gate closes at 8PM.

Monks praying in front of chedi
Monks praying in front of chedi

Although That Phanom is a small town that is peaceful and pretty safe, however travellers are advised to be careful about strolling around at night alone. If you are a woman travelling solo, avoid walking back the hotel in the dark. At least grab a bike or rent a motorcycle. There are some beggars and homeless around. Avoid gold leaf offers from sellers in front of the temple as tourists can be scammed.

Apart from Pratat Phanom, visitors can also visit other 6 important chedis. Each of them represents each day of the week. The nearest chedi is Pratat Renu, in Renu district approximately 15 kilometres from That Phanom district. Pratat Renu belongs to those who were born on Monday. While other chedis are mainly white with golden gild decoration, Pratat Renu was the only chedi made of pink clay. The soft and sweet color is its unique charming.

Story and photo by Wanweena Tangsathianraphap

Visiting Wat Pho, Bangkok

Wat Pho (pronounced Wat-Poor) is one of the most famous temples in Bangkok. Located in the Phar Nakhon district, Wat Pho is walking distance to Kaho San Road and the Chayo Phraya River.

The wat is world famous for the huge image of the reclining Buddha inside the temple. The statue is 15 meters high and 43 meters long, with the foot of the Buddha scribed with pearls. The underside of the foot is split up into 108 unique sections, displaying lucky symbols.

Bangkok Wat Pho reclining Buddha” by Phillip Maiwald (Nikopol) – Own work. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

Next to the statue lie 108 bronze bowls that reflect each of the symbols on the Buddha’s foot. It is believed that you will bring luck upon yourselves if you place money into these bowls. The money collected is used to help maintain the temple.

The complex inlaid decoration of the smaller prangs in the complex include many real pearls
The complex inlaid decoration of the smaller prangs in the complex include many real pearls. Photographer: Jason Gong

History of Wat Pho

The temple was named after a monastery in India where it was believed that the Buddha once lived. Before the temple was founded, the complex was used as a school for locals to learn traditional Thai medicine, and showcased statues showing numerous yoga positions around the site.

From the 1800s onwards, the complex went under further changes but kept the same medical path. In 2008, Wat Pho won a Memory of the World award from UNESCO.

The temple's official name in Thai is "Wat Phra Chettuphon Wimon Mangkhlaram Ratchaworamahawihan" and houses over a thousand Buddha images
The temple’s official name in Thai is “Wat Phra Chettuphon Wimon Mangkhlaram Ratchaworamahawihan” and houses over a thousand Buddha images.  Photographer: Jason Gong

The complex was turned into a temple in 1778 to replace Wat Phodharam from another site that was burned due to the Burmese invasion. Wat Pho was then restored in 1982 under the reign of King Rama III and today stands as one of Bangkok’s biggest temple attractions.

Getting a traditional medicine massage at Wat Pho

Once being the homes of traditional Thai medicines, it is no surprise to see Thai massages being available at Wat Pho. The temple started one of the first ever Thai massage schools, and massages are priced as follows:

Traditional Thai massage – 30 minutes 260 baht, 1 hour 420 baht
Foot massage – 30 minutes 280 baht, 1 hour 420 baht

How to get there

The best way to get to Wat Pho is by taxi as there are no metro links nearby. Be sure to always use the meter and pronounce the temple as “Wat-poor” so your driver will understand.

Best time to visit

The temple is open daily from 8am until 5pm and is busy every single day. To avoid the crowds it is best to get there at 8am. Visiting any time of the year is great, the temple has plenty of things to see and take pictures of inside, the complex is also walking distance to many other temples and the Grand Palace.

Entry to the temple costs 100 baht and local guides are on hand to show you around at a fee. Please remember to wear appropriate clothing, no vests, or short skirts, sarongs can be rented for a fee outside the temple. Article text by: Harvie

Visiting Bagan, Myanmar (Burma)

Bagan is one of the world’s greatest Buddhist sites, comparable in size only with Angkor Wat.

Even though Myanmar already nominated Bagan for listing as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, it still remains only on the “tentative list”.

After years of unrest, the government is slowly but steadily working towards UNESCO’s suggested plans for conservation and preservation of Bagan’s more than 3000 temples, stupas and monasteries.

The Bagan Archaelogical Zone stretches across an area of 42 km2.

Visiting Bagan
Balloons over Bagan via Flickr by Paul Arps : http://bit.ly/1on2v8o

When discussing the historical kingdom, Bagan is commonly spelled “Pagan”: the city was the capital of the Kingdom of Pagan from the 9th to the 13th century and covered a large part of present-day Burma. Often considered as the glory days, much of the Burmese culture and known traditions were established during that time.

By the end of the 13th century, the kingdom was invaded by the Mongols under Kublai Khan and lost much of its power and prestige in short time. But even after its fall, Bagan remained an important pilgrim site for Buddhists.

Bagan Temples under Palm Trees
Bagan Temples under Palm Trees via Flickr by KX Studio : http://bit.ly/1pc1GW0

Over the last centuries, the city got also hit by a number of earthquakes; the last major one recorded was in 1975, resulting in serious damages of dozens of temples and pagodas.

Bagan is divided into three main areas:

– Nyaung U is a spot popular for local entertainment, markets and nice local restaurants.

– Old Bagan is the core of the Bagan Archeological Zone and is centred inside and around the Old City’s wall.

– New Bagan is a lesser visited area and visitors mostly choose to stay around the two above mentioned areas.

Monks at Shwezigon
Monks at Shwezigon via Flickr by Stefan Munder : http://bit.ly/1lbGQ86

A popular way to get around is on the back of a horse cart. Though a bit uncomfortable at some times, it gives you a good view of the surroundings and you gain great information through the knowledge of your driver. Alternatively, you can rent a bicycle and head off on you own.

The admission to Bagan is US$15. Below is a list of recommendable highlights for a temple safari of Bagan:

Shwesandaw Pagoda

Shwesandaw Pagoda (or Shwesandaw Paya) was built by King Anawratha in 1057 and enshines sacred hairs of Buddha within. Climbing up its terraces gives you a stunning 360 degree view of the surrounding and is frequently visited for sunset photos, and at the end of the day you are likely to have the area much to yourself as the day trip groups will have left.

sunset no.2
Sunset at Myanmar: Bagan via Flickr by Patrik M. Loeff : http://bit.ly/1vhXlmv

Shwezigon Pagoda

Located in Nyaung-U, the Shwezigon pagoda [not to be confused with the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon] is the main religious site in Bagan as it is believed that a bone and tooth of Buddha are enshrined here. The temple was completed in 1102 during the Pagan Dynasty.

Golden Shwezigon
Golden Pagoda via Flickr by Bambi Corro III http://bit.ly/1AQXA8q

Ananda

Ananda (named for Venerable Ananda, Buddha’s first cousin) is considered the finest, largest and best preserved temple in Bagan; it contains a large, 9m high golden Buddha statue. The temple was also built during the Pagan dynasty and it is said that Indians helped building it, as it reflects plenty of typical Indian architectural features.

Ananda pagoda
Ananda Pagoda via Flickr by Patrik M. Loeff : http://bit.ly/VPaXpF

Sulamani

Sulamani Pahto,  located in the village of Minnanthu (southwest of the main area of Bagan) contains a number of well-preserved Buddhist paintings, which date back to the 12th century.

Bagan, Sulamani Pahto
Sulamani Pahto via Flickr by Arian Zwegers http://bit.ly/1pBv4UU

Mahabodhi

The temple is an architectural imitation of the famous Mahabodhi temple in Bodhgaya, India, where Buddha attained enlightenment. It was built in the beginning of the 13th century by King Nadaungmya and features a large number of exterior Buddha images.

Mahabodhi Pagoda
Mahabodhi Pagoda via Flickr by Hella Delicious : http://bit.ly/1mLYScu

Buphaya terrace

A popular relaxing and gathering spot among locals is the Buphaya terrace with its golden stupa, overlooking the Ayeyarwady River (Irrawaddy). It is located just 200m down from the Mahabodhi temple.

Buphaya
Buphaya via Flickr by Stephen_khine : http://bit.ly/VPuqql

Balloons over Bagan

Only currently possible from October to March, taking a hot air balloon is an exclusive way of seeing Bagan from above, and surely a breath-taking experience for anyone lucky to get up there. www.easternsafaris.com

Balloon over Bagan
Balloons over Bagan via Flickr by Paul Arps http://bit.ly/1zymmYs